Services We Provide:
  • Consulting
  • Analysis
  • Advice
  • Repairs
  • Rebuilds
  • Mods
  • Custom amps

    Being an Engineer I always start every project by determining the exact
    requirements. Even when it's a one off custom it's still very well planned and
    documented. I use a variety of tools including Cad for schematics,
    mechanical and even for tubes. I'm an old school kind of guy so I actually
    get curves and draw loadlines, etc. So I know within 90% where I am when I
    start to test. After I have established exactly where I'm going to punch
    holes it's time to break out the tools.

    I use a variety of methods to punch including step drills, chassis punches, twist drills and
    occasionally professional machining.
    The next step is fabing a PCB. After I've drawn a schematic. I'll arrange placement and fab a PTP
    board. I typically use CAD software to establish exactly where everything will go. I'll print a 1:1
    drawing. Cut a piece of FR-4 to the exact dimensions. Drill the holes and then use an arbor press
    to install the eyelets.

    Now it's time to install he parts. I use nylock nuts, teflon wire and loctite on everything. I also use
    Silicone RTV on the preamp sockets which drastically reduces microphonics. I don't want stuff
    rattling loose up the road.

    Now the Box.... I normally use plywood on boxes but I have used #2 pine and a variety of
    hardwoods dependent on the end users request. Check out the Cocobolo grill.

    Here's a couple of pointers for covering amps:
    Measure accurately and precut before you start to cover. Get one of those special mats and
    "Pizza Cutters" from Wally World. The cutter makes a nice smooth cut and the mat is measured
    off in inches so it makes it a breeze. I usually allow about 2" extra from the actual measurement.
    Last, use Super 90 from 3M, it holds really well and it only takes a few minutes to setup. Other
    glues like Hide glue work really well too, but without a special applicator you'll never get even
    coverage. Regular contact cement works pretty well with some stuff but it takes a lot longer to
    set up and it will stink up the whole place. It also might make vinyl covering a little soft because
    of the nasty solvents.